UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY SYDNEY, Australia

YAEL FRISCHLING

KUMIKI

Positioned in a place between fashion and architecture, theory and practice, exploring the structural arrangements and interactions between this pair of disciplines in order to develop innovative sustainable practices, this collection is inspired by Japanese joinery systems within its architecture. The traditional Japanese approach to architecture utilises one locally sourced material- wood- to construct entire buildings through advanced interlocking techniques. Contemporary Japanese architects, such as Shigeru Ban and Kengo Kuma, use this approach to create modern buildings with qualitative, sustainable values. 'Kumiki' uses wool – an abundant resource in Australia – in an innovative, unconventional interlocking system combined with traditional needle punching, with no sewing or conventional fastening required. The interlocking systems use three modular units and a joinery technique to create a weave. However, unlike traditional weaves, the pieces are joined three-dimensionally. The collection challenges the conventions of traditional garment making resulting in striking sculptural silhouettes and intricate modular textiles. Three-dimensionally woven wools assembled in varying scales span the predominantly zero-waste cut pieces. This process of material and surface connectivity explores the possibility of creating fashion proposals that eliminate the use of sewing and material wastage.