Twelve winners have been announced at the iD International Emerging Designer Awards in Dunedin, with the top prize going to Rebecca Carrington from the UK.

 The iD International Emerging Designer Awards, supported by Otago Polytechnic, were judged in Dunedin on Thursday 14 March. Tonight’s stunning iD show, which showcased works from 25 international young designers, culminated in the announcement of awards. The Awards were judged by Kiwi designers Tanya Carlson, Benny Castles (WORLD), Margi Robertson (NOM*d) and Kate Sylvester, as well as VIVA editor Amanda Linnell.

H&J Smith iD International Emerging Designer First Place Winner Rebecca Carrington’s collection, ‘The Story of Miss Ruby Ribbon’, is a celebration of her childhood and her deceased pet parrot, Ruby. To share this memory, Rebecca created a fictional narrative through which she tells the tale of a 21-year-old woman who still enjoys playing with toys. Rebecca, from Manchester Metropolitan University, uses toys as shapes for garments, scaling them up from A3 drawings to create larger versions for pattern pieces. Print, embellishment, and dying techniques are obvious throughout the collection. She created masks, fabric key rings, and plush toys to reflect her the tale and inspire her collection.

Judge Benny Castles said Rebecca’s design was “uplifting and inspiring”, adding: “In a time of anxiety and negativity globally, Rebecca’s collection was a breath of fresh air. There was a sense of playfulness which belied the intricate detailing of her design showing talented craftsmanship and story-telling. Her collection brings a smile to your face.”

Betty Liu from Melbourne’s RMIT was named John and Marelda Gallaher Family iD International Emerging Designer Second Place Winner. Judge Amanda Linnell said “Betty tackled a complex and delicate issue, which she handled beautifully showcasing her craft and intellectual execution.” Betty’s collection ‘Eating the Other’ explores ways Western fashion reinforces dogmatic stereotypes of Chinese culture.  Her collection features garments with long and closed-off sleeves intensifying the feeling of entrapment. While Betty’s garments look distinct, they share themes of text prints, heaviness and entrapment.

Gallery De Novo iD International Emerging Designer Third Place Winner is Sarah Hawes, from UTS, Australia. Sarah’s collection ‘Psychotic Tailor’ explores men’s tailoring with a hint of the psychotic, inspired by photographs of her grandfather wearing tailored suits in London during the 1950s. Benny Castles said Sarah’s designs showed an extraordinary commitment to detailing. “Her handiwork was awe inspiring and invigorated the judges’ appreciation of originality.”

Amanda Linnell congratulated Lavinia Ilolahia, a graduate of AUT, Auckland, who won the Viva Editorial Award for the Best NZ Collection. Amanda said, “Lavinia presented an eloquent message told in lovely tones. It’s a very of the moment collection in which she has cleverly elevated sportswear to high fashion.”

Head Judge Tanya Carlson said that while this year’s finalists were drawn from throughout the world, their work drew upon a common theme. “This year the judges noted many of the collections were inward looking. Designers were nostalgic about their childhoods and also took inspiration from immigration and migration. Additionally they all showed an incredible and inspiring juxtaposition of fabrics and colour.”

For the first time the iD International Emerging Designer Awards were staged following a show which also featured capsule collections from 16 leading New Zealand designers. The 20th Anniversary iD Show at Dunedin’s Regent Theatre was made possible by support from the Dunedin City Council, Otago Polytechnic and the BNZ.

The full roll of results for the iD International Emerging Designer Awards 2019 is:

Rebecca Carrington, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK.  H&J Smith iD International Emerging Designer First Place Award 2019 ($6,000)

Betty Liu, RMIT, Australia. John and Marelda Gallaher Family iD International Emerging Designer Second Place Award ($4,000)

Sarah Hawes, UTS, Australia. Gallery De Novo iD International Emerging Designer Third Place Award ($2,000)

Anna Petry, RMIT, Australia. The Fabric Store Award for Excellence in Design Award ($1,000 cash and $2,000 The Fabric Store fabric)

Cassandra Casas Rojas, Kent State University, USA. Therapy + Psychology Free to Be Me Award ($2,500)

Carolina Nicolucci, Micaela Pena & Catalina Peralta Martinez, Ciclo. University of Buenos Aires, Argentina. Barbara Brinsley QSM Carpe Diem Award ($1,500)

Dayun Lee, London College of Fashion, South Korea. Cavalier Bremworth Wool Award ($1,000)

Bethany Cordwell, QUT, Australia. Beca Sustainability Award ($1,000)

Eily Shaddock, QUT, Australia. Holden Acadia Arrive in Style Award ($500)

Lavinia Ilolahia, AUT, Auckland. Viva Editorial Award

George Clarke, Bath Spa University, UK. Blunt Design Award (his design will be produced as a limited-edition Blunt umbrella)

Rosette Hailes-Paku, Otago Polytechnic, New Zealand. Apparel Magazine Most Commercial Collection Award (Apparel Magazine story)

Phoebe Lee, Otago Polytechnic, New Zealand. Otago Polytechnic People’s Choice Award ($500)

Amy Louise Redford, Manchester Fashion Institute, UK. Otago Polytechnic People’s Choice Award ($500)

The 20th Anniversary Show featuring the 25 emerging designers and New Zealand fashion brands Carlson, Charmaine Reveley, Company of Strangers, DADA, Hailwood, Kate Sylvester, Liam, Maaike, Mild-Red, Nom*D,  Ruby, Stolen Girlfriends Club, WORLD, Wynn Hamlyn, Yvonne Bennetti and Zambesi, will show again on Saturday 16 March at 7.30pm in Dunedin’s Regent Theatre.